Wigle Whiskey

“History and spirits go down really well together.” - Meredith Meyer Grelli, Co-Founder Wigle Whiskey

After America won the American Revolutionary War, Treasury Secretary and future broadway musical star, Alexander Hamilton imposed an excise tax on distilled spirits to try and dig this new nation out of massive debt. The tax favored large urban distilleries, and was disproportionately unfair to rural, farm distillers. These farmers, having just finished fighting a war over unfair taxation were more than a little pissed off, and this outrage launched the Whiskey Rebellion, a revolt against the excise tax that would last from 1791 until 1794. Wigle Whiskey, named for one of these whiskey rebels, in embracing their history, engaging with their community, and pushing the boundaries of craft distilling and innovation, are inspiring a new rebellion of their own.

Meredith Meyer Grelli grew up in Pittsburgh in a family who valued history. She majored in urban history at the University of Chicago, where she met her future husband, Alex Grelli. Alex wasn’t your typical 18 year old college student, preferring hand crafted cocktails to drinking 40 oz beers. Meredith recalls him making her a Manhattan in his dorm room on their first date. This mutual love of food and drink allowed their bond and love to grow. Meredith went to cooking school in Paris, where Alex proposed to her. He became a lawyer and Meredith took on a role doing brand marketing for the H.J. Heinz Company in her hometown of Pittsburgh while getting her MBA at Carnegie Mellon. If you don’t know why Heinz is important to Pittsburgh, you need to ketchup. In May of 2010 Meredith and Alex joined Meredith’s parents, Mark and Mary Ellen Meyer, on a vacation to Niagara on the Lake, in Ontario, Canada. They were there for the Shaw Festival, a celebration of theater, but while in the area, they decided to visit the local ice vineyards. Ice wine is a unique product of this region of Canada and New York, where vintners allow the grapes to freeze, consolidating the sugars in the fruit to produce a sweeter and more alcoholic wine. The culture and community in that area had been shaped around the history and traditions of that product. For Alex and Meredith, who were already intrigued by the concept of craft alcohol, they were inspired to try and do the same for Western Pennsylvania.

Western Pennsylvania certainly has a rich history of making whiskey. When America was still a collection of British Colonies, the first major distillation to have a big economic impact here was rum. Rum was a British drink. Once the war began, we stopped making rum but we weren’t going to stop distilling. Thanks to a large population of Irish and Scottish immigrants, we were able to draw on the traditions of their ancestors to start making whiskey, except for one little problem. Barley, which is the main grain used in Irish and Scottish whiskies, doesn’t grow very well in the east, so they had to find a different grain to use. German immigrants had brought rye to the colonies, which is a robust and flavorful grain that grew beautifully, especially in New York, Maryland, Virginia and Western Pennsylvania. Rye whiskey became the first American whiskey and before long, Monongahela Rye from Pittsburgh was the most popular whiskey in the country. It remained that way until prohibition nearly wiped out the industry entirely. As Meredith and Alex learned more about this history, they knew they wanted to reclaim Pittsburgh’s right as the birthplace of American whiskey. They urged Meredith’s parents, on the eve of their retirement, to join them in this venture. They agreed, and just a few months after that trip to the ice vineyards, the story of Wigle Whiskey had begun. 

The name Wigle comes from one of the more infamous whiskey rebels of the 1791-94 revolt, Philip Wigle (Vigol). Philip’s passion for distilling and discontent with the excise tax found him in over his head when he punched a federal tax collector, sparking riots and protests. He was sentenced to hang for treason, but was eventually pardoned by President Washington, who did not want to start a war over a whiskey tax. Meredith and Alex felt they could relate to Philip Wigle. They too had followed their passions for history and craft alcohol as well as the desire to make something to proudly represent their home. In doing so, they found themselves in an industry that was monopolized by big corporations. An industry that worked hard to keep consumers confused and in a state that had restrictive laws that inhibited the growth of craft distilleries. They had also broken ground on their distillery before fully learning how to distill. One can imagine how they would feel overwhelmed, but they poured as much of their own money as they could into the project, with some help from family and friends, and dove in head first. To fight this uphill battle and forge a path for success, they were going to need to spark a second whiskey rebellion. A rebellion through craft.

Learning to distill is challenging, especially in 2011. There were not many resources or trade organizations they could turn to for help. Alex and Mark, Meredith’s father, attended a few artisan distilling classes at Michigan State to get a handle on the basics. They read a lot of books, not only on the science of distilling, but also distillers manuals from the 1800’s to learn more about that famous rye whiskey of the past. They knew they were not going to be able to recreate the same whiskey from over a hundred years ago. A lot has changed since then. Laws have become more strict and equipment has improved, but that didn’t mean they couldn’t use the past to inform the present.

“A lot of the literature seemed to suggest that the rye whiskey made at that time didn’t contain any corn. They only made corn whiskey when they ran out of rye grain. So, our rye has no corn in the mashbill. That serves to differentiate our rye from others on the market that have a decent amount of corn in them. Similarly, for bourbon, since corn whiskey was made only when people ran out of rye grain to make whiskey, our bourbon has no rye in the mashbill. It’s a wheated bourbon. That helps differentiate us from most of the bourbons on the market. We used that historical context to inform some of the production methods and bring it into the modern day.” - Alex Grelli, Co-Founder Wigle Whiskey

Wigle sources all of their grains locally, partnering with regional farmers and focusing on organic grains whenever possible. Once they had sourced their grains and had an idea what their mashbills would be, they did a test batch of their rye and wheat whiskies through Michigan State. Michigan State used incredibly conservative and strict protocols in producing these test batches, so once Wigle had the results back, they had to decide if they were going to make any changes to the process. 

“We had to test the boundaries on either side of that to say, ‘Why are they doing this?’ We had to use all the literature that we had outside of it, in terms of articles, research and books on whiskey making. Different metrics and points where you would make a cut. We had to say, this was the protocol Michigan State used for a test batch, this research says X, Y, and Z, this research says A, B, and C, how is that pushing it in either direction and where do we want to go with ours? We did that at Wigle in the beginning, because we were using 10 or 15 gallon barrels, so you’re getting immediate feedback in 6 to 9 months.” - Alex Grelli

As they continued to tweak their production, one thing was certain in their minds. They wanted their products to stand out. There was a false sense of variety being offered to consumers. Despite the wide selection of brands on the shelves, most of those brands disseminate from just a handful of companies. Many brands that were billing themselves as craft were in fact just purchasing aged stock from places like MGP (Midwest Grain Products) in Indiana and then blending them. While there certainly is an element of craft to that, Meredith and Alex found that over 70% of the rye whiskies on the market in Pennsylvania came from MGP, with Jim Beam making up most of the rest of the market share. MGP does not offer tours, they do not allow people into their facilities to observe their process, and contracts with the distilleries or blenders they work with often include language to maintain anonymity. This lack of transparency is meant to keep the consumer blissfully unaware of the lack of diversity on the shelves. 

True craft whiskey, that which is milled, fermented, distilled and aged by the producers, takes massive financial investments, tireless dedication, and most importantly, time. All of these factors result in a higher price tag, which can be hard for consumers to swallow when sourced products are much more affordable. For this reason, Meredith and Alex knew that educating the consumer was going to be crucial to the success of their business. They needed to show people that what they were doing was truly historical, different, unique, and not just another new label on the same mass produced spirit. 

“Education has always been the most important thing to Wigle as we build. Everyone who works at Wigle prizes education above all else. We knew that we were starting a company in a very young industry where the level of consumer confusion was quite high, and it was paramount that if we were going to charge a premium for spirits that we would need to back that up with a ton of education to help people understand where the value was. For every new product we release, we have a programming schedule, and an education schedule built around it, because it’s part and parcel to how we build our portfolio and how we build our brand.” - Meredith Meyer Grelli

To make this a reality they had to change legislation in Pennsylvania, which didn’t allow for distilleries to give tasting samples to consumers on the premises. Pennsylvania has a state controlled liquor board that manages which products are sold and where. Without that direct consumer interaction, they wouldn’t be able to tell their story and share the honored whiskey traditions of Western Pennsylvania. Their path to success would be bleak. Just like their namesake, they found themselves pushing back against restrictive government regulation.

Luckily, with two lawyers in the family (Mark and Alex) they were able to work diligently for two years to change those laws, using similar laws from other states as well as legislation around the beer and wine industries as models.

To further separate themselves from the spirit establishment, transparency and inclusion was an early focus, from the design of the distillery to their bright colored labels. The distillery was designed with the idea that a person should be able to walk through the space and, regardless of whether they have a guide with them or not (which they always do), it should be apparent how their spirits are made. On their website, they not only offer tasting notes for their products, but also describe the process in which they are made, including the mashbill, age, and types of barrels used. 

Most whiskey labels stick to classic themes and color schemes. Hues of browns and other dark colors with stoic images of hunting, birds in flight, or sheets of parchment paper. They look old, a bit stuffy, and seem to cater to one kind of whiskey drinker. An old man who sits in a big leather chair, smoking a cigar. Wigle’s early labels were decidedly different, modern and monochromatic, with bright colors that made a statement.

“The whiskey industry hasn’t been talking to you for the last 60 years. We want to talk to you. This is open to everybody, no matter what you think of whiskey. This is a new thing.” - Meredith Meyer Grelli

There is a whimsical element to their labels that invites consumers to play and have fun. The early labels also featured a hangman’s noose that is starting to fray, a reference to Philip Wigle’s journey and the history behind their product. It was a conversation starter to bring people into the story. Several years ago, as Wigle’s distribution expanded outside of their distillery where they would have less control in communicating that story to customers, they decided to remove the noose, acknowledging that the image could have broader potential implications that could make people uncomfortable. They didn’t want the image to be misinterpreted and take away from the sense of inclusion they valued so highly. 

Wigle’s products have evolved a lot over the years. They started off selling unaged whiskies as many craft distillers often do, but they distilled their white whiskey differently than the spirit they intended to put into barrels to age. To make a white whiskey palatable, they wanted to focus more on aromatics and tighter cuts to eliminate certain congeners. Congeners that, if aged, would likely oxidize and produce lovely flavors but without the time in the barrel, would be harsh and unappealing to drink. As they expanded their portfolio to include a wider variety of spirits, the education they received in learning new methods continued to reshape how they approached distilling. 

“By doing all these products, it really helps inform why you might make whiskey differently than you would make brandy, and that continued to develop our methodology. We didn’t pretend to know exactly how to make whiskey when we started, and come up with one method and stick to it for ten years. We evolve as we learn by doing different things.” - Alex Grelli

To maintain transparency, they have been open with their consumers on how their products change from batch to batch. Community is incredibly important to Wigle, so they wanted the people of Pittsburgh to be closely involved in shaping their products. When they were trying to decide on cooperage, they made several similar batches of whiskey and divided it up between a slew of different barrels. Some barrels were made from kiln dried oak. Others were air cured. For each different type of barrel they tested out different char levels and put all these whiskies into flasks that people could taste side by side, then purchase if they liked one. They hosted community tasting panels and collected surveys to get statistically significant and qualitative feedback and used this direct consumer connection to make their final decision.

Wigle uses barrels from Kelvin Cooperage in Louisville, Kentucky. The barrels are made from oak sourced from Pennsylvania, New York and the Ozarks and for the most part, they use a level 4 char. They started off with 10 and 15 gallon barrels, and have grown into larger barrels. Right now their “Straight Rye Whiskey” is a blend of 25 gallon and industry standard 53 gallon barrels, and they are very happy with the tart cherry, vanilla and baking spice notes in the spirit. As they move more significantly into the 53 gallon barrels, which will take longer to properly mature, they hope to maintain those flavors while adding more complexity and nuance to it.

Wigle continues to use community tasting panels as they develop new products, allowing their fellow Pittsburghers to feel they are a part of reclaiming their history. 

“Pittsburgh is a city that’s been brought down to its knees. For our local audience, it’s so empowering and refreshing to hear about something that our city has really thrived in. Everyone thinks of Pittsburgh as a steel town, but part of our goal was to say, ‘Hey, Pittsburgh! Before we were a steel town, we were a whiskey town.’ So, even though the steel industry is in the pitts, you still have something to be really proud of. And that is powerful. I mean, I’m a Pittsburgher and that’s powerful to me.” - Meredith Meyer Grelli

Wigle invests in their community in other ways as well. In choosing the strip district for their home base and distillery, they were able to help revitalize that neighborhood and as they have continued to expand, they have created a lot of jobs. They were one of the first companies to adopt Governor Tom Wolf’s living wage program, paying all of their employees above the minimum amount. In the constant pursuit of education, Wigle does a lot of programming. Everything from having a table at local farmers markets to doing quarterly events with the Smithsonian about the history of whiskey in America. They have seven locations between Wigle Whiskey and their sister company, Threadbare Cider, and all of their locations are designed like mini-museums where people can learn more about both their brands and the history of Pittsburgh.

They aspire for their buildings to be community gathering spots where people can get together and hold events. They host fundraisers for local organizations, and donate a portion of the proceeds to their causes. Outside of Pittsburgh, they have reached out to the larger mid-atlantic community to create the Whiskey Rebellion Trail, connecting craft distilleries across the region with cultural institutions to tell the story of American whiskey pre-prohibition and the revival of craft spirits today. 

Innovation is key to any craft distiller if they hope to differentiate themselves from their competition, but Wigle takes it a step further. Wigle has a full innovation team. While most distilleries focus on a small selection of products that they hope to distribute wide to as many markets as they can, Wigle knew early on that they were not going to follow that model. Instead, Wigle has opted to harness this sense of community that they have cultivated and focus locally, creating a dedicated and educated consumer base in Pennsylvania. The goal is that every product they make is a dynamic expression of their community, with a focus on locally sourced ingredients and products that can tell a story. At one point, their innovation team set an auspicious goal of releasing a new product every month, ranging from aged spirits that have been developing over many years, to fast cycle innovations where the perfect blend of low cost up front investment and rapid production methods allow them to generate something of quality right away. They continue to test these products through tasting panels and statistical analysis and have even partnered with other local businesses and artists to round out the collective effort.

One great example of this is “Roasty,” a Wigle collaboration with Full Pint Brewing Company and Pittsburgh artist, Patrick Lee. The whiskey was inspired by Full Pint’s Rye Rebellion Imperial Stout beer, is made with 6 different organic malts and aged for two years in new charred oak barrels. Lee’s custom label demonstrates his unique ability to use paint to create a specific mood, further lending this spirit an abstract expression of Pittsburgh.

“We have always viewed this craft movement as a second whiskey rebellion. The imperative for craft spirits is the push the bounds. If we’re not doing that, then we’re not really doing our jobs. The interesting things for us, happen at the edges. We try to play there, until we mould out what is marketable and makes sense, and then push that out through education and programming in a relevant way for consumers.” - Meredith Meyer Grelli

Wigle’s tagline used to be “A Rebellious Spirit,” until they were issued a cease and desist letter from Rebel Yell, which feels fitting. As a family, they have rebelled against government regulation to change laws in their state so that craft distilleries can connect more directly to their customers. They have rebelled against the mass confusion perpetuated by big spirit corporations. They have looked to the past for inspiration and made it relevant to the present, returning a sense of pride to their community. They have allowed their passions to get them in over their heads, but never let fear of the unknown stifle their pursuit for something new. For them, innovation is not just experimentation for experiment's sake or a way to bring in revenue. Innovation is how they unite the foundational concepts of history, education and community that have made them the success they are today. It’s a way to continue to challenge themselves to learn and improve on who they are. Wigle may not have been the first American craft distillery to throw a metaphorical punch at the spirit industry, but they have certainly made an enormous impact. Philip Wigle would be proud. 

TASTING NOTES:

Straight Rye Whiskey (42% ABV)

Nose: Chocolate brownie, rye toast, crisp apples, and orange citrus

Palate: The mouthfeel is soft and delicate, with some mild oak and cola notes up front that transition to spicier flavors of black pepper with a hint of cinnamon. Sweetness takes over with vanilla and cherry leading to a creamy short finish with a touch of oak to round it out. 

This is a very approachable rye, distinct enough to not be confused with a bourbon, but softer and sweeter than a standard spicy rye. The wheat in the mash bill is doing a nice job of refining the texture to allow more flavors to sing out. 

Straight Bourbon Whiskey (46% ABV)

Nose: Caramel, brown sugar, clove, wet wood, dried fruits

Palate: The mouthfeel is again, soft and delicate with subtle woody notes up front, mixed with vanilla. The vanilla morphs into butterscotch in the midpalate before settling into a medium finish of cherries and plums, with a touch of tobacco. 

This is a very nice bourbon. It has those classic caramel, vanilla and butterscotch flavors that you are looking for in the spirit, with some nice fruit notes to balance it out. The lack of rye in the mash bill helps it stand out from the Straight Rye. 

Single Barrel Straight Rye Whiskey (50% ABV)

Nose: Caramel, applesauce with cinnamon, dried figs, maraschino cherries, wet pine needles

Palate: The mouthfeel is hotter with a nice bite to it. Up front there are sweet notes of confectioners sugar and dried fruits, giving way to bready flavors that feel reminiscent of bread pudding. Dark cherries and plums accompany a long and creamy finish with a hint of caramel and sweet butter popcorn. 

As a single barrel at 4 years old, this is a beautiful representation of everything Wigle wants their rye to be. The higher ABV gives the whiskey great body, while still maintaining a delicate, creamy feel that is approachable. Everything that works in the Straight Rye Whiskey is very present in this whiskey, but the flavors are more bold and nuanced. 

Roasty (46% ABV)

Nose: Malt balls, cocoa powder, peanut shells, hazelnuts, with some grassy notes like walking into a juice bar

Palate: The mouthfeel is hot and creamy with vanilla, faint caramel, and chocolate up front. Chocolate sticks through and gets deeper and darker layered on top of espresso coffee, marzipan and hazelnuts leading to a medium/ long finish. 

This is an incredibly unique whiskey, and unlike anything we’ve ever tasted before. It is definitely an effective whiskey interpretation of a chocolate stout beer, and a wonderful example of Wigle’s innovative and collaborative spirit.